Friday, 26 July 2013

The Lost City trek (Colombia) - An Unforgettable Adventure into the Unknown.


'La Ciudad Perdida de los Tayrona' is an archaelogical site of an ancient city deep in the Sierra Nevada, the north-east region of Colombia. Found as recently as 1972, and dating 650 years older than Machu Picchu; this ancient home of the Taironas truly is one of the greatest lost treasures of the world.



The only way to reach the Lost City is a gruelling 4 or 5 day hike through the deep jungle. The journey is not for the faint hearted; slippery steep climbs, river crossings and venomous creepy crawlies line the way. At times you may wonder why you have paid to battle your way up a mountain. However, despite being a ball of sweat and keeping on your toes to avoid snakes, this really is an experience you will never forget. Winding your way through the jungle past indigenous villages makes for some stunning scenery, and there are plenty of stops along the way to jump in a river to cool off and take in your surroundings.

What makes the trek truly amazing is what it culminates in. I was blown away by the Lost City. This is partly due to the fact that you don't really have much idea what to expect. Steps appear out of the jungle and then disappear steeply up into the mountains, and you feel like your climbing into the unknown. Once you reach the top and the site opens out it truly is a sight to behold. I would rather not give everything away as to leave something for the imagination, but I can assure you that the Lost City does not disappoint. It throughly exceeded my expectations and more, and a certain mysteriousness seems to lie over the whole thing.

I honestly believe that this hidden gem could in the near future be the next Machu Picchu. For us it was deserted, left completely to ourselves. Soon the path will be evened out and sanitised for safety and the site will be covered in signposts. So get there now while you can and before its mysteriousness and sense of adventure are lost.

The trip in total costs around £200, and although the price doesn't change depending on the amount of days, I would recommend doing it in 4. 4 days was a good challenge and you really felt a sense of achievement; without the hanging around. However if you don't trust your fitness and like to take your time or are a slow walker then do it in 5. This price includes everything apart from snacks (take your own for energy) and any gear you want to take. Everything will get wet and sweaty so pack spare clothes and take plastic bags (but remember you'll be carrying it yourself!). Mosquitos are also out to get you so pack long sleeves and trousers to cover up on an evening and take plenty of repellent. The tour can be booked from any of the nearby towns of Santa Marta or Taganga and english-speaking guides are available, enjoy!

Thursday, 25 July 2013

Baños (Ecuador) - A Volcanic Playground



Three hours south of Quito and set against the backdrop of a very active volcano, Baños is Ecuadors outdoor playground. In the morning you could be riding on a motocross bike up towards a series of waterfalls, and in the afternoon be relaxing in natural steaming baths; Baños seems to have it all.

A cool town in itself, Baños offers the outdoor type a whole host of activities. Many people rent out mountain bikes, quads or motorbikes to explore the stunning surrounding scenery. Waterfalls are abundant in the area and a short ride outside the town takes you to several huge waterfalls in the valley north of the town (at Pailon de Diabloone you can actually climb through a cave underneath the waterfall).You can also see the active volcano that spurts endless streams of lava into the sky just outside the town; a very cool view when seen at night.

The other outdoor activities are endless; White water rafting (very good), Horse riding, Canyoning, Bungee Jumping, Zip Lining, Paragliding and more. Many tour operators also offer trips into the Amazon. By this time i think your heart won't take much more, so a nice relax in one of Baños' hot springs and a cold beer should do the trick.

If your feeling a little more adventurous, this time on the food front, then Baños offers a very cheap delicacy of Peru and Ecuador, 'Cuy', or as we call it, Guinea Pig. Join in the locals devouring this strage feast at the local market for as cheap as £3.

Hostel: Plantas y Blancas. A great trustworthy help-yourself style hostel. Amazing roof terrace with awesome views, amazing breakfast and turkish baths!

Huacachina - Sandboarding the Oasis.


Huacachina is a brilliantly random little stop located just outside Ica in between Cusco and the coast. Huacachina is a beautiful oasis town that consists of a cluster of hostels set again the most amazing backdrop of towering sand dunes. It ended up being one of the highlights of our trip.

Hopefully this gem in the middle of Peru will change little in the next few years, however the back-packing scene is ever expanding and for good reason. The desert surrounding the lagoon is a playground for travellers and the hostels are all fitted with pools and a laid back atmosphere to give this oasis its deservedly laid back atmosphere. On a night however, this can all change if you want it to. Strangely enough this tiny town houses a huge club that locals flock to from far around on weekends and some of the hostels can get pretty lively on a night.

The sand dunes surrounding the oasis are asking to be played on and the locals have caught on, offering an adrenaline fuelled couple of hours of sandboarding and dune buggying, which are a must. Everyone hops in a buggy that looks like something out of mad max that proceeds to absolutely bomb it over the sand dunes, leaving you flailing round like your on a roller coaster. The buggy stops at the top of huge dunes along the way and everyone is encouraged to hop on a sandboard to cruise (or quite often fall) to the bottom of the dunes. Many think sandboarding is pretty lame however i can assure you that standing up and aiming straight downwards will get your blood pumping. But don't worry many others simply slide down on their chest whooping and hollering. The genius of it is that the buggy then picks you up at the bottom, saving you from slogging your way back o the top. It really is an awesome little trip.

For those people who really enjoyed it, or simply want to go and have a longer board, proper snowboards can be rented from many of the hostels, leaving you to explore the never ending dunes to your hearts content.

Hostel : Most have a pool and a view of the lagoon. Bananas had it all and for good value.

Cusco - Colonial Beauty and the gateway to an Incan Legend.


Cusco is an incredibly beautiful city full of life and exitement. It's typically colonial squares and bustling streets are set against an awesome backdrop of the Andes and make it an incredible hub for  South Americas finest treasure; Machu Picchu. Machu Picchu is now easily accessible to anyone who wishes to see it, and trust me, it doesn't disappoint. I was absolutely taken back by the sheer size and unbelievable setting of the stunning Inca capital; it truly plays on the imagination. 

There are now a million and one ways you can get to these ore-inspiring ruins. Most people take the traditional Inca Trail (book WAY in advance, at least 3 months), following in the steps of the Incas themselves. To me the price does not reflect the experience at about £600, however it is the classic trail. Another option is the Salkantay trek, a hard five day hike where snowcapped mountains collide with lush tropical rain forests. This is a little cheaper than the Inca Trail and if you are into hiking is the one for you. For those who want a different experience and/or didn't book or have the money for the other trails, then the Jungle Trek is a great option. We opted for this and had the most incredible four days. Way cheaper, costing around £200, this included white water rafting (not great), downhill mountain biking (amazing), zip lining (the largest in the southern hemisphere) and everything else (tour guide, food, accommodation, transport, Machu Picchu entry etc). I couldn't recommend it more.

Travellers will notice that Cusco is somewhat upmarket compared to the rest of the continent due to the influx of tourists who have a little more money to burn. However this does not mean prices for you are more expensive, only that the town has a slightly more glossy feel, with cleaner streets and swankier bars, making it all the more charismatic and fun. The food is top notch and if you want to pay a little more it can be something really special. The bars are lively and welcoming and the night clubs (well, all two of them) are great fun till the early hours.

Hostel: Loci for a party - great old colonial building with amazing food and entertainment every night. Just be prepared to be out of breath, the altitude creeps up on you. There are loads of great boutique style hostels about, just take your pick. 

Wednesday, 17 July 2013

La Paz - Adrenaline at Altitude.

La Paz is a place that many travellers love for many reasons that are well founded. The parties are sheer madness, the streets are bustling and the adventurous activities are endless. I can't say I've been to a place in the world where you can do more crazy things from. It's a great city to visit and I won't bore you with descriptions but a handy tip is to pack warm and be prepared to be out of breath.

Here's a brief list of some of the awesome activities and things to do in and around La Paz:


Death Road - Very few travellers come to La Paz and don't cycle down what is considered 'the most dangerous road in the world'; and it doesn't disappoint. You will be, for want of a better phrase, shitting it. When asking our guide how many people die going down this road he kept his mouth firmly shut, which just about says it all. It is absolutely awesome though with amazing scenery and if your into your mountain biking or a bit of adrenaline this has to be done. The company Altitude are a good place to start.



Coca Museum - Actually a very interesting look into the history and uses of Coca and the effects it has had on South America and the world.

Witches market - The cheapest place in South America to buy anything Alpaca, from socks to guitar cases. It also has some pretty interesting items on display such as Alpaca foetus's.

Cholitas Wrestling - Hilarious. Wearing traditional Andean clothing these women battle it out in the ring with great showmanship. Expect a party.




Jungle tour - if you are interested in visiting the jungle then the Pampas tour to Rurrenabaque is a great place to go (and one of the cheapest). It was certainly of of the best three days of my extensive trip. A short flight in an Indiana Jones type plane (very cool) and a three day tour should set you back around £175. This comes with all the trimmings, anaconda hunting, cayman hunting, piraña fishing, swimming with wild dolphins, food, transport; the whole shebang. I would also recommend staying in Rurrenabaque for one night if you can as its a cool laid back jungle town (and if anyone is interested in doing Ayahuasca a good and safe place to do so).



Climbing Huayana Potosi - If you have time and £100 spare this is an unforgettable experience. A three day climb will take you to the snowy summit of this 6080m mountain. It is not easy, and many fail to make it due to the harsh conditions and the altitude. However, those that do, including myself, say it is one of the greatest feelings of achievement and one of the most ore inspiring views they have ever seen. Highly recommended if your up for the challenge.

If you are short on time i would definitely cover the first four, with the last two being some awesome additional extras if you have the time and money.

For food and nightlife its best to speak to other travellers once your there to get an idea of places to go.

Hostels: Wild Rover and Loci if your up for a real party, don't expect to get much sleep.

Potosi (Bolivia) - 'The Devils Miner'


This will not be one of the most light-hearted stops on your trip but it is an astonishing eye-opener into some of the conditions in which some people work in this part of the world. Put on the map after an american film maker released 'The Devils Miner' in 2006 to show the horrific conditions in the mines, Potosi is now becoming more and more poplar on the travel route and breaks up the journey between the salt flats and La Paz.

Day trips to Potosi's mines takes into one of the worst places on earth. Deep underground conditions are brutal as miners of all ages struggle and very frequently loose their lives attempting to make enough money for a living. Tours can be booked all over town and most hostels now offer the service. You should take gifts for the miners such as cigarettes, coca leaves, and what people find most exiting, dynamite (which is a pretty hairy experience when set off underground). I would highly recommend this trip as it does allow some perspective and an insight into an area of South America most tourists don't see.

Once the richest town in South America the evidence can still be seen wondering its picturesque streets and squares. Beware however, also claiming to be the highest town in the world at 4060m you may find yourself frequently struggling for breath as you navigate its steep narrow streets.

Hoste: Eucalyptus - (with Koala tours).

The Salt Flats - 'A geographers wet dream'




I dare you to come up with an original picture amongst the awesome vast open white space that is the salt flats. This is a must do in South America.

This insane landscape is like nothing you will have ever seen before. Sprawling perfectly flat over the horizon the salt flats are a sight to behold. One of the highlights 'fish island' used to sit underwater but now is strangely perched above the ground covered in coral and cacti that soar four metres above your head. As one of my friends politely put it these landscapes are 'a geographers wet dream'. Moving off from the salt flats into day two also doesn't disappoint as awesome rock formations and crystal clear turquoise lakes covered in flamingos begin to appear. The trip also takes you to the eerie train graveyard just outside of Uyuni.





I would personally do a two day tour as three days drags out a little while and involves a lot a driving. You need 6 people for a car so preferably go with people you like, its far more fun taking silly photos and you won't kill each other cooped up in a car. You can do these tours from either Tupiza, Uyuni or from the Atacama desert in Chile (also make sure you spend the night in a salt hotel, you can sprinkle the table on your dinner).

Border Crossing - Argentina to Bolivia - Not for the faint hearted.


I thought our border crossing from Argentina to Bolivia was an especially bad one; however, when speaking to other travellers, it seems this isn't such an uncommon occurrence..........

The change from Argentina to Bolivia is unfathomable. One minute you are in European-esk surroundings having hopped off your pleasant bus after polishing off a nice meal and the next minute you are thrown into the third world. All of a sudden the streets are laced with short wrinkly women in traditional bowler hats and frumpy alpaca cardigans, everywhere looks poorer and dirtier and the atmosphere is far more alien; I loved it. Bolivia was going to be an adventure; and our first journey did not disappoint.

Due to a 'flood' on the main road from Villazon to Tupiza all the buses were not going and the trains were much later. The only apparent option therefore was a taxi, and we were in for a rough ride. Due to the 'flood' the taxi drove off-road, and I mean proper off road, through the dessert and river banks to avoid the blockage. However when we finally got back on the road we realised it wasn't a flood but a strike blocking the road with lots of angry faces staring at you. After an initial warning our renegade taxi driver decides to swerve around the road block and make our own way. They didn't like that. Chased by a group of ten men our taxi sped off, only to be stopped by a young lad who launched a large rock through the rear windshield, shattering the glass over all of us. After that we obeyed and stopped and were luckily allowed through the blockade shortly after, only to see taxis the other side with similar smashed windows and tyres slashed, with many-a-traveller attempting to hitch a ride after having been ditched by their taxis. Welcome to Bolivia!

Our next journey was equally as bad from Uyuni to Tupiza, try not to get the cheap local bus if there are other options. It was absolutely freezing, horribly uncomfortable and unfortunately some valuables went missing. Keep a keen eye on your possessions if this is the only option.

Fortunately the rest of our journeys were unproblamatic. Just know what you are doing and getting yourself into. Local buses are cheap but sketchy and uncomfortable, fork out a little more and you won't regret it.


San Pedro de Atacama (Chile) - Stargaze in a Star Wars Landscape.


Taking a trip around San Pedro de Atacama makes you question whether you're actually on Earth. The landscape is breathtaking and beautifully strange; the only topography it can be likened to is that of the moon or something from Star Wars. Welcome to Atacama, the driest place in the world.

San Pedro de Atacama serves as the gringo meeting point in northern Chile and is surrounded by otherworldly landscape. Hot geysers, volcanoes, salt flats and lakes surround this small but pleasant tourist town. The obvious activity is to visit the surrounding area which can be done by mini bus, or if you fancy a cycle (albeit a fairly long one) then bikes are a great option. The salt pools are a great stop, where you can literally lie reading a book with no chance of getting it wet against some unreal scenery. Watching the sun set from the valley of the moon is also a must and an experience you won't forget, the moon rises as fantastic colours appear throughout the valley.

However, what most people come here for, is the star gazing. A tour of the night sky can be taken with 'Servicios Astronomicos Maury y Compania'. Away from any light pollution the view of stars is simply incredible, you won't have seen anything like it. We could see the rings of saturn and shooting stars covered the sky. Highly recommended. Pack warm as its freezing on a night, and you don't want to find yourself (as we did) spooning and hugging strangers for warmth.

Hostal: Hostel Rural - Not the cheapest but comfortable dorms and a good atmosphere.

Tuesday, 16 July 2013

Places to go if you have the time and cash!





For some travellers unfortunately the budget and time restrictions come into play along the way. However if you have a little spare cash and the time here are some recommendations that I would definitely look into (especially if you are into your outdoors and wildlife):

Patagonia (Argentina) - See the most southern city on the world (Ushuaia) and scenery that will take your breath away. Glaciers, lakes and mountains occupy some of the most spectacular scenery in the world. For those who are really adventurous and can afford the extremely expensive fare the Antarctic isn't too far away!

The Galapagos (Ecuador) - A short flight from the mainland takes you to the incredible Galapagos islands. Described as a 'living museum and showcase of evolution' boats and cruises allow you to see the place Darwin came up with his theories amongst some of the greatest wildlife on Earth.

Buenes Aires - The City That Never Sleeps.


There's a lot Buenes Aires has to boast about; nightlife, steak, tango, football, history and architecture, just to name a few. It's a city thats very much alive 24 hours of the day and many a traveller finds themselves stuck in the well loved capital of Argentina.

Nightlife: You will not visit this city as a traveller and not have one of the best nights out of your life that ends up with you crawling in at 8 in the morning. Its just amazing. Here's some brief recommendations:

  • Terrezas - Huge outdoor style club on the outskirts of town. All mixes of music but the sounds of the gringos is outside. Best on a Saturday and stay till sunrise.
  • Crowbar - A place where the good looking people hang out that plays commercial music. A great place for a good night.
  • Pacha - More for the music lovers. Great house and techno nights with amazing sound system and outdoor areas, expect to be going till the early hours. 
  • Club 69 - On a Thursday you'll get a surprise to see transvestites and B-Boys performing in front of you amongst good house music. A really fun night you probably won't forget.
  • Notorious - it comes in the name for those lovers of jazz.
  • La Bomba de Tiempo - A must do in BA. Every Monday night tourists and locals alike head down early to Konex to witness an insane drum show in an abandoned warehouse. Drinks the size of your head a great place to start a night or do something different.
  • Tango - head to any number of Tango nights around the city. Many include wine, a meal, and a brief lesson. A really fun night out and the dancing is pretty incredible.
Other Attractions:
If you are not too hungover there are some great things to see in BA. 
  • Evita's grave is top on the list of tourist attractions and it is well worth a visit due to this small town of huge graves where the famous Evita rests. 
  • Steak restaurants are abundant and some aren't too pricy. Check out the famous 'La Cabrerra' for an awesome steak and 40% off if you visit from 7-8pm.
  • La Boca - you don't have to be a football lover to go for a match at the famous Boca stadium. You will never forget it. Complete madness and fans that will put others to shame. Be careful however and book through your hostel for the safer seats.
  • Eco Yoga park is located around 1 1/2 hours outside the city and is great for a relax. Nearer by there are great parks just outside of Palermo if you want a break from the city. Avoid the Zoo.
  • A day at the races - free to get in and a good cheap laugh (if you can hold on to your money).
BEST TIP: Get hold of some dollars before getting to BA/Argentina if you can. Due to the state of the economy you can exchange your dollars on the black market and get far more for your money, sometimes around double. It was also not dodgy at all making the exchange.

Other Tips: Don't feel guilty for not doing much in the day, much of the culture is the nightlife! Go to the clubs not through the hostels to save money - they drastically overcharge for a ticket and to get you there and back.


Hostel: Millhouse if your a party goer and want to meet people. Good hostel all round.